Robert Christgau: Dean of American Rock Critics

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Consumer Guide Album

Georgia Satellites: Open All Night [Elektra, 1988]
Forget bars 'n' barbeque--the 24-hour eatery of the title tune belongs to Dan Baird's new sweetie ("I just got to know if that thing is open all night"), who shouldn't be confused with "Mon Cheri" ("Her skirt rolled up and I could see she was French"). I know, I know, but trust me when I say their appetite makes up for their boogie recidivism. Sure they'd like to be the Stones, but they're smart enough to know they won't make it and young enough to take their fun where they can get it. B+